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BEAULIEU VINEYARD2000 VINTAGE REPORT North
Coast (Napa,
Sonoma, Mendocino) Rutherford, February 2, 2001 - Vintage
2000 will go down in history as not only the first vintage of the new
Millennium, but also as one of the most challenging vintages on record.
If this vintage was a sign from Mother Nature, then the 21st
Century could prove to be a vexing one for winemakers in the North Coast!
Now that the dust has settled, the malolactic fermentations are finished,
and the wines barreled down, let’s take a more considered look at this past
harvest. While Beaulieu Vineyard
has the strongest presence in Rutherford and Carneros, it sources fruit from all
over the Napa Valley, as well as many vineyards in Sonoma as well as Mendocino.
This mosaic of vineyards allows our winemakers to gain a strong overall
sense of the vintage throughout the North Coast on an annual basis. With the exception of four heat spikes,
including a mid-June period with 110º F-plus temperatures, the growing season
was characterized by cooler temperatures than usual and unseasonal humidity.
Rain during late August, mid-September and October further provoked
European-style conditions and difficulties with picking late-ripening fruit in
particular, such as Cabernet. On the positive side, however, earlier
ripening grapes like Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, as well as Sauvignon Blanc, may
well turn out to be exceptional. The
vines and the fruit looked terrific this year until mid-October.
July was overall moderately warm and dry.
Harvest got off to an early start in the North Coast, with Sauvignon
Blanc arriving at BVaround mid-August. It
then slowed to a crawl for a few weeks with unseasonably cool weather and some
light rain during the week of August 28th.
The week of September 11th was a near miss from a potential disaster; a
tropical storm moved offshore before its torrential rains could have an affect.
According to Elizabeth Florence, BV’s Vineyard Operations Manager, the
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc that were harvested during this
period reached “full maturity and were dynamite”. She adds that “ Viognier was beautiful and Pinot Gris
awesome.” We have also been harvesting based on flavor ripeness and
physiological characteristics of the vine to determine harvest times, instead of
just using hard numbers such as Brix, TA and pH.
This practice has worked well, allowing us to pick our grapes at the
optimum ripeness for the highest wine quality, according to Florence. In
her view, the extreme heat spell in June played no small part in shocking the
sytem of many vines on the North Coast in a way that they never recovered from.
Yet the strange, cool weather of late August and much of September,
conversely, also played games with some varieties like Zinfandel.
“It was very weird—we picked some Zinfandel in Napa Valley before
Pinot Noir! It had high sugars, but
there wasn’t the physiological maturity we wanted.
It just didn’t get the hang-time it needed, even with a light crop.
Yet we had some excellent Zinfandel from Sonoma, so overall we are very
happy with the Zin this year.” The
last week of September also saw record-breaking warmth, challenging efforts to
keep the sugars from soaring too high too fast. In some vineyards, we commenced
"evaporative cooling techniques" a fancy name for overhead
sprinkling at 100 degree plus temperatures. It worked successfully to maintain
the integrity of the vines and prevent unnecessary dehydration of the fruit.
Rain and cool temperatures plagued the latter part of October, distinctly
compromising many vineyards planted to late-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon.
In the end, it was a vintage that tested the abilities and patience of
grower and winemaker alike, with conditions more like those usually found in
Northern European vineyards. According to BV Winemaker Bob Masyczek, “Generally, sugars increased at a slow rate or
stayed level for most of early September. We
saw only the one brutal heat spell in late September, and that didn’t do much
to help ripening. The benefit was
that the new Dijon clones of Chardonnay in Carneros had long hang time. Late
ripening varieties, such as Syrah from Carneros and Charbono from Calistoga,
came in very late. Pinot Noir's yield is average but the quality is stupendous.
The fruit hung on beautifully as we picked at perfection.
In most years there are heat spells that expedite the ripening of Pinot
Noir, usually the second varietal (after Sauvignon Blanc) to come in.
We didn’t get any of those heat spells until late September.
We actually picked some Zinfandel before the Pinot came in!
The progression of varieties coming ripe this year wasn’t “normal”.
Merlot came in ahead of Chardonnay.” Overall
the quality was outstanding. This
is especially true with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Crop levels were high, but
not like 1997. Acids were “average”.
Florence adds that “the Syrah in Carneros carried a large crop, and
this contributed to the later ripening at a lower level of maturity. On the
other hand, our Syrah from Calistoga and Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma is beautiful.”
Yields tended to be average to above average, except for
Zinfandel, which was less than normal due to a high proportion of older vines
with small clusters and berries. Sauvignon
Blanc was very exciting this year because we have so many new vineyards with
intense varietal character. (“Buy-up lots of the 2000 Sauvignon Blanc, it's
going to be dynamite,” says Masyczek!). According to our North Coast Grape Grower Representative John
Azevedo, “the quality of fruit in the field was very good through about
the middle of October and then quality was affected by poor weather.
Early harvested varieties show exceptional quality.
Chardonnay crops were heavy, but quality was still very good, though
Russian River Chardonnay experienced a tough year and never achieved very high
sugars. But flavors were still
good, however; the wines show more aromatic delicacy than usual.
Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Zin and Sangiovese
(from Dry Creek Valley) are all awesome this year due to ripening before
any bad weather BV Winemaker Michael Eddy was sanguine about this year’s harvest with regard to
Merlot and Cabernet: “It was a challenging harvest and I hope this is the last
time I have to think about it. I
think, if I could, that I might trade November and December’s weather for
October’s!” He noted that
the Merlot from Rutherford and north was the earlier-picked and finest in
quality. “Most of this came in
before the weather really cooled off. The
southern Napa Valley Merlot was mostly much later and shows more herbal
character, though not vegetal. I
would call Merlot quality good and having a bit of cool vintage character, with
medium body and reasonable structure. The
best Merlot, however, from BV1 and BV2 in Rutherford, is certainly
outstanding.” As for Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon,
vintage 2000 will probably be considered an average year.
As Elizabeth Florence notes, “ The heat wave in June really zapped them
(the Cabernet vines), and then the cool temperatures towards the end of the
season followed by rain exacerbated the situation.
While the leaves were still on the vine, the grapes just were not
maturing, as the vines began to shut down without accumulating more sugar.”
The cool weather through most of October, combined with rain, did not
allow for ideal ripening. Some rot
was the inevitable result, as it was for some vineyards of Chardonnay in the
Russian River Valley a few weeks prior for similar reasons. Rot in Cabernet is a rare situation. That said, there will be a certain “Bordeaux” style to the
wines, since the alcohol levels will be lower on average. Eddy
elaborates: “On average, sugar levels for Cabernet were low.
At BV 2 for example, we picked one block of Clone 6 in two passes, two
weeks apart. The extra two weeks
did not profoundly affect the sugar level and indeed, the earlier pick is better
quality. The rain and mold threats
due to weather put pressure on us to pick sooner than ideal.
The best of the Cabernet is very good, but certainly not big or chunky.
Shall we say ‘subtle’, but not ‘intense or massive’?”
One problem created by the weather is that pH’s were on the high side
because of hang time in cool weather that allowed for potassium accumulation.
And this was combined with high acidity, giving some wines a soft texture
with some herbal flavor. “
Napa Gamay (Validiguie), Charbono and some Cabernet therefore didn’t reach the
levels of maturity that we would have preferred. Yet most of the Cabernet from
our historic vineyards in Rutherford did ripen in advance of the rains, so BV
will still produce some fine wines given what was picked earlier.” Summing
up the Millennial harvest, Vice
President and Director of Winemaking Joel Aiken said, “…Considering the
unusual growing season and erratic weather during harvest, I am very pleased
with our 2000 Vintage wines. Everything
out of Carneros looks fantastic. Our
early to mid-season reds are excellent with great color and body.
Cabernet is a mixed bag, with some exceptional wines with good color and
weight and others with slightly lighter body.
We will make some very good blends out of these wines.
These will be approachable earlier on than in many other recent vintages
characterized by firm tannin and structure.” |
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